Original Article (Here)
Thanks to My Partner John Minahan CEO of Gitman Bros. Gitman Bros Website
Our Collars Ourselves
By Darrell Hartman
As evolving office dress standards have made the suit and tie superfluous in many workplaces, the button-down shirt has become a man’s defining fashion statement. “The shirt,” says Eric Jennings, men’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, “is where you can express yourself.”
With all those men expressing themselves, discerning shirt signals from shirt noise, as it were, has never been more difficult. Particularly because “We’re at a moment in the fashion cycle where sport and dress, and business and casual, are colliding,” says Jeff Blee, divisional merchandising manager for men’s accessories at Brooks Brothers. This means shirts that were once reserved for after work are now becoming commonplace from 9 to 5.
Historically, collars–from the British-inspired spread collar to the casual American button-down–have separated the managers from the managed. These days, though, an array of collar styles, colors, fabrics, weaves, cuffs, and patterns are flooding the workplace. Each shirt communicates something different–but what? Bloomberg Businessweek posed that question to a handful of experts, including Blee; Jennings; Sam Spector, a prominent New York City-based stylist; John Minahan, chief executive officer and president of shirtmaker Gitman Bros; and Brett Fahlgren, an established men’s style consultant. Next time you get dressed for work, you’ll know what statement you’re making.
The Traditionalist
The pinpoint oxford button-down has no prejudices. It’s for everyone, from prep-school kids to Warren Buffett. Its wearer is “the sort of guy who doesn’t want to stand out in a crowd,” says Blee. Leaving collar points unbuttoned, however, makes a “devil-may-care statement,” Minahan notes.
The Loud-Shirt Guy
The associate wearing a party shirt to the morning meeting isn’t sending the strongest work vibe. “It’s very What-Happens-in-Vegas,” says Spector, who recommends pairing this type of shirt with a suit. In the worst-case scenario, Fahlgren notes, “He’s wearing it hanging over a bedazzled jeans pocket.”
Fashionisto
Slim-cut shirts with vintage elements like smaller collars are for younger men who fancy themselves au courant, especially when paired with a skinny suit and tie. “He’s a natty dresser and probably knows every actor on Mad Men,” Minahan says. Adds Fahlgren: “He can make you a Southside Fizz.”
The Dweeb Savant
Fitted check shirts are part of the uniform for many of today’s upwardly mobile workers. “He’s image-conscious and probably in a business where he understands modern media,” Minahan says. “He’s a tactician–even if his shirt colors aren’t always on-trend,” Fahlgren notes
The-Dressed-By-Wife-Guy
Favored by middle-management types on the go, the non-iron shirt is more about ease than style. “I think of the guy in the airport with a computer bag over one shoulder,” says Minahan. Adds Fahlgren: “He’s practical and professional–there’s a good chance his wife buys his clothes for him.”
The Gekko
Popularized by Gordon Gekko, the dandyish contrast-collar shirt requires an ego to back it up. “It’s a power broker look,” Jennings says. Although hip designers have been tweaking this bull-market classic, the usual wearer is still an “older banker or a corporate lawyer,” Minahan says
The Overachiever
A large portion of the American workforce is answering to a thirtysomething in a gingham shirt. “It’s really popular right now,” Spector says. “The gingham guy is versatile–he’s cool, maybe he’s a dad,” Fahlgren says. “Either way, he’s comfortable with who he is.”
The Linen-Loving Playboy
Defying common sense, some men wear linen shirts all year. “It’s way too casual for work,” Spector says. Worn seasonally with a summer-fabric suit, though, the well-tailored version can convey Mediterranean savoir faire. However, Minahan says, “Most men don’t dare to do it.”
The Urban Lumberjack
Not yet entirely welcome in the workplace, the flannel shirt conveys a persona that’s part Paul Bunyan and part Polo Ralph Lauren. The shirt signals “a journeyman,” says Fahlgren. “Whether or not he rides a mountain bike or goes to the farmer’s market, he’s looking for something authentic.”
The C-Suite Sartorialist
A crisp, expensive, and perhaps monogrammed white or blue dress shirt with modern spread collar is the standard frontispiece of the guy in charge. “He’s that much richer and more elegant,” Blee says. French cuffs allow more flamboyant honchos to “show off some executive bling,” Minahan notes.
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