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In this Issue:
The corner office casual wardrobe
The casual dresser’s wardrobeAs we begin another season of the WJ, we want to restate our editorial philosophy. The purpose of the Wardrobe Journal is to educate you in matters of clothing, style, and personal appearance, enabling you to make wise, well-informed, investments in your wardrobe, so it will be functional, enjoyable, and just right for your individual needs.
Wardrobe Building and the Well-dressed Man
There was a time when the project of building a proper wardrobe was a fairly straightforward matter. One simply assembled a collection of basic suits, a few blazers and odd jackets, and some grey and khaki trousers, both dressy and casual. These were complemented with some basic solid shirts, a few stripes for the bold and brave, and a tie collection that was, quite often, a man’s primary means of sartorial expression. This was rounded out with some basic traditional footwear choices in black, and possibly, cordovan. Toss in a shawl-collared dinner jacket, a tan trench coat or balmacaan, and in colder climes, a dark wool or cashmere overcoat, stir well, and voila!
The time when this was so has passed. Today, we live and work in a world where some organizations have maintained a standard of classic business dress, some have departed from such standards, seen negative results, and attempted to recover a more traditional standard, and some have gone “business casual” and beyond, never looking back. Add to that mix every conceivable variation, and you have the situation, in which our clients face the task of building a wardrobe that best meets their needs and preferences, and allows them to be properly attired for any occasion. While there are an infinite variety of possibilities, we will focus on three, and provide some guidelines that you can adapt to you own specific situation,
The Classic Gentleman’s Wardrobe:
Someone in a traditional business environment, where a suit is proper business attire, needs to build a functional rotation of basic suits that lend themselves to accessorizing with multiple shirt and tie combinations. The process of building to an ideal wardrobe can be accomplished in steps – developing a one week rotation, then, growing it into a two week cycle. In an environment where Fridays are more relaxed, four suits and a few jackets would be the first benchmark. If it is a five day suit office, then five and two would be better. It might be wise, in this instance, to consider having an extra pair of trousers with some or all of the suits.
Once the first step is in place, building to a two week rotation appropriate to the office means ten to twelve suits, and four to six jackets. In a climate that has four true seasons, an ideal wardrobe would consist of this rotation for warmer weather and the same for the colder season. Since that represents a significant investment, for most men, this would be a process, rather than an event. In a more moderate climate, mid-weights would make up the bulk of the rotation, with a few seasonal suits, blazers and sport jackets. Owning a timelessly styled dinner jacket, a raincoat with removable liner, and an overcoat that will cover occasions ranging from formal evening to elegant casual, will provide the clothing items necessary to be well-dressed in virtually any situation.
The Corner Office Casual Wardrobe:
Many men now work in a situation where, while they no longer need a suit every day, a jacket is expected. Rather than building a suit dominated wardrobe, in this context, some versatile classic suits mixed into a broader collection of jackets and blazers provide the range of options needed to be prepared for any occasion. The most useful suits in this situation are classic solids that can serve as a frame for many different shirts in a variety of patterns, insuring the maximum return on your investment. Adding a pin or chalk stripe for major meetings, and a muted plaid for a change of pace, will give depth to this wardrobe. Whether a man leans toward fashion driven suits, or more classic styles, he will be prepared for those times, business or social, when a dress suit is the only proper choice.
In this scenario, a broad and interesting collection of blazers and odd jackets forms the bulk of the wardrobe. The exact make up will vary from person to person, based on their taste and style. The seasonal differentiation will be a factor of where you live. Even then, for most of us, there should be some jackets that are clearly for warmer weather (think linens or linen blends) and cooler climes (think heavier tweeds, Shetlands & camel’s hair).
To round out this type of wardrobe, two well chosen trousers, matched with and rotated with each jacket, will give you an exceptionally versatile wardrobe. In those areas that experience colder weather, having several trousers in a heavier flannel or whipcord gives the proper look to heavier jacket outfits. Depending on individual taste, and office protocols, a variety of dressy and more casual shirts, or even knits, may be worn with these.
Once again, a timelessly styled dinner jacket, a raincoat with removable liner, and an overcoat that will cover occasions ranging from formal evening to elegant casual, will provide the clothing items necessary to be well-dressed in virtually any situation.
The Casual Dresser’s Wardrobe:
Many people today work in an environment where they would be out of place if they showed up in a dark pin-striped suit, or any suit for that matter. These are corporate settings that, for whatever reason, do business in a way that does not require a traditionally high level of dress. There are as many reasons as there are companies in this group. The level of dress can run from casual trousers and logo wear, to sophisticated, and expensive, fashion casual wear. A man who works in this situation, needs to know both the what and the why of it, in choosing how to dress. Generally, wearing fine quality wool trousers with well co-ordinated sportswear is the way to go. The key is to look successful and well turned out. This environment is not an excuse for sloppy dress. High quality accessories, such as belts and shoes are very important.
In this situation, a man’s wardrobe should contain basic clothing for a full range of social situations. If he is a successful man, he needs some classic suits for a range of dressy situations. Solids, once again, provide the greatest versatility in terms of shirts & ties – dark & dressy, and lighter for a change of pace. A basic complement of blazers and odd jackets (4-6, depending on lifestyle), paired with quality dress trousers, a formal outfit, and appropriate outerwear round out what someone in this environment should have.
Every situation is unique. Therein lies the value of working with a knowledgeable professional, who is committed to serving you well. He or she can evaluate your situation, ask the necessary questions, and help you develop a plan, short or long term that will bring your wardrobe into the maximum level of fitness for your professional and personal life.
Protecting Your Investment – The Care and Feeding of Your Wardrobe
An enjoyable, well-planned wardrobe involves the investment of time, effort and, of course, money. No rational person would invest in a beautiful home, or luxury automobile, without protecting and maintaining that investment. Likewise, the investment you have made in your wardrobe needs to be properly maintained. Looking after your wardrobe is not difficult, but it does require some daily disciplines, that will pay healthy dividends over time. You will obtain maximum service from the various pieces you have gathered, and will enjoy a long term relationship with your treasured “old friends”.
Clothing items:
Always use wood hangers. Quality clothing should come on a wishbone shaped hanger that is long enough to hold the shoulders in place. Better hangers often have a slightly widened ends that accomplish this. These are particularly important for jackets that are not tailored in the current trim silhouette, with a narrower point to point.
Where possible, trousers should be hung full-length, from the bottoms. If your closet doesn’t permit this, you can use the “tailor’s fold”. Take them by the bottoms/cuffs and place the hanger between the legs. Fold one leg over the hanger, so the bottom is just above the crotch. Then fold the other leg through the hanger and over the first. This will hold the trousers in place.
Before you hang up an outfit, it is best to brush it with a good horse hair brush, steam it to remove any wrinkles, and let it hang separate from the rest of your clothing for a day. This allows any odors to escape, and allows the suit to regain its proper shape. If you get any small food spots on a garment, brush them off, blot with a damp cloth, and allow it to dry. Investing in, and using, a quality clothing steamer, like those from Jiffy Steamer Company, will more than pay for itself in lower dry cleaning bills.
You should not dry clean a suit after each wearing. Frequent dry cleaning breaks down the fibers of the cloth, and ages the garment prematurely. A garment should only be cleaned at the end of the season, before you put it away, or when you actually soil or stain it. If a home steaming and brushing isn’t sufficient to restore the look of the garment, and it is not soiled, have the cleaners press the suit without cleaning.
Give your clothing enough room to breathe and hang freely in your closet. With proper after-wearing care, and sufficient closet space, your clothing will gain extended life and serviceability. It is best to rotate your suits and jackets between wearings, to give all equal wear. Perhaps the simplest way is to place the garment that you wore yesterday (and hung separately for a day) at the back of your rotation, and select the next one in line.
A good way to simplify dressing , insure that you are well turned out, and keep your closet organized, is to purchase three to five ties with each outfit, hang them with the outfit on the trouser bar of the hanger, and rotate through them, as well. Then each time you wear that outfit, it looks and feels fresh and new. It also simplifies packing for a trip, because the ties you need are already with the garments you choose for the trip.
Cleaning ties is very difficult. Rarely do they have the same look and feel, even if a stain is successfully removed. Treating new ties with some sort of stain resistant spray, before you begin to wear them, is a good idea. Some products are so good that they even protect your investment from your favorite classic cab or super Tuscan.
High quality cotton shirts are intended to be laundered. Even if you take them to a dry cleaner, they will be laundered, unless you request otherwise, something that is entirely unnecessary. While there are still a few places where one can have their shirts hand laundered and ironed, they are few and far between. If you are blessed with such a person or place, and can afford the luxury, enjoy it.
The best way to locate a good commercial laundry is to ask Erik, or an associate, whose shirts look particularly good, whom they would suggest. With our shirts, we recommend that they be laundered without starch. For those who prefer a more finished look, we would suggest no more than light starch. Heavy starch breaks down the fibers of the fabric and shortens the life of the shirt.
Perhaps the place where daily care pays the most dividends is in the treatment of footwear. Today a high quality pair of shoes costs upwards of $200, and can easily go far beyond that. With the help of a knowledgeable clothier, who knows footwear and proper fitting, the enjoyment of your purchase justifies the investment in the best you can afford.
When you purchase shoes, you should always buy a pair of full unfinished cedar trees fitted to your shoes. They serve two purposes. They help retain the original shape of the shoes, keeping them looking great. They also gradually remove the moisture and odor that is the result of wearing them.
Before wearing new shoes, they should be well polished. Whether you do this (and enjoy it!), or you take them to a good shoe care professional, it is important to give the leather proper protection at the outset. Not only does this enhance their appearance, but it is the first step in maximizing the return on your footwear investment. The other key to longevity is to have a full complement of shoes for your wardrobe, and to rotate your shoes, never wearing them no more often than every third day. It is even better to give them a full week of rest after wearing. When you remove them at night, insert the trees, use a conditioner/cleaner, then wipe them with a soft cloth and return to the shelf. You should do a touch up with a good polish at this time, or before you wear them again. Forming the habit of doing these things, will insure that the investment you have made in fine quality clothing will provide you with maximum return, in both enjoyment and in longevity.
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